Julia Child’s Perfect Sandwich Bread Is the Underrated Recipe Everyone Should Be Making (2024)

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Kitchn Love Letters

Carmen Keels

Carmen Keels

Carmen Keels is a music teacher in NYC by day, and baker by night. She has been developing as a baker since she made the decision 7 years go (while 8 months pregnant) to only bake the family bread instead of buy it. This lead her to set up a bread subscription service for her Harlem neighborhood that ran for two years. She has been an audition finalist for the Great American Baking Show, and has been featured in Kitchn's series The Way We Eat. Baking is her specialty, but she is always up for any culinary challenge. Lately Carmen has been baking for social justice by working to raise money for various Black Lives Matter organizations, local and national, by having physically distanced bake sales.

published Aug 14, 2021

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Julia Child’s Perfect Sandwich Bread Is the Underrated Recipe Everyone Should Be Making (1)

When your Tony Award-winning friend Nikki M. James asks you to cater her wedding shower because her original caterer bailed, you say yes — a thousand times yes. (Both because you say yes to your friends and because the shower theme was “high tea.”)

I never set out to be a caterer (and I still wouldn’t call myself one despite having done it), but this was in my wheelhouse — I knew I could lay a spread even the royal family would dig. Okay, maybe that’s a stretch, but I’ve spent a lot of time reading regency romances and Jane Austin. I was energized by Nikki’s faith in me and my skills as we worked together to create the menu.

I found Julia Child’s pullman loaf while researching the best type of bread for finger sandwiches. For this project, Nikki and I decided that the cucumber sandwiches would be made on the white bread, and that the open-faced salmon and crème fraîche sandwich spears (as well as the fig, black pepper, and ricotta rounds) would be made on brown bread. Sounds good, right? I modified Julia’s recipe to add wheat and rye for the brown bread, and baked them all in the same pullman pan for ease of slicing.

The shower was a Saturday afternoon affair, so I started prepping after work on Thursday. I made all the bread and wrapped it tightly until it was ready to slice for assembly. On Friday my oven broke —as in, it stopped working completely.Thank goodness the bread was done. The tartlets, cookies, and lemon drizzle cake had to be baked across Hamilton Heights in various neighbors’ ovens. I made 60 flourless chocolate walnut cookies in my Breville toaster oven. (It took some time, as I could only bake four at once, but the mini oven baked the cookies beautifully). Scones would be baked on-site, so those were chilling in the freezer.

The partygoers — some of Broadway’s elite — floated into the host’s apartment on a scone-scented cloud, and the cucumber sandwiches were gone at day’s end. My dear friend was happy, and I was so proud that I had pulled off my first catering gig. I’ve had a few more since, but these days I generally stick to social justice bake sales.

If You, Too, Make Julia Child’s Pullman Loaf, a Few Tips

I highly encourage you to try this bread out and put it in your rotation. It has great chew, but is also light and fluffy. It also has great structure —it can withstand a fat piece of turkey with lettuce and tomato, and yet is delicate enough to allow for cucumbers to shine in finger sandwiches. Here are a few tips before you start.

  1. Include a bit of starter. This bread is best when made with a starter (also known as a sponge, biga, or poulish), which is simply a small amount of bread flour, water, and yeast that is left to get bubbly over several hours on a cool counter or even overnight. It will seem like a sloppy mess, but it helps make the bread extra flavorful. But if you don’t want to take the time for the poulish, that’s OK — it will still taste wonderful without it.
  2. Skip the bread machine. If you have a bread machine, great! If not, you can use a stand mixer with the dough attachment, like I do. Allow the dough to rise in a lightly oiled bowl on the counter, and cover the bowl in oiled plastic wrap to keep the dough cozy and moist (or use a shower cap from the dollar store).
  3. Bake in whatever pan you’ve got. This dough is very versatile. You can bake a single recipe in a pullman pan, but I’ve also quadrupled the recipe and baked it in giant pullman pans with slide lids. If you don’t want a flat-topped rectangular loaf (or don’t have a pullman pan), it will dome beautifully in a regular loaf pan with a nice, golden exterior.

At Kitchn, our editors develop and debut brand-new recipes on the site every single week. But at home, we also have our own tried-and-true dishes that we make over and over again — because quite simply? We love them.Kitchn Love Lettersis a series that shares our favorite, over-and-over recipes.

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Julia Child’s Perfect Sandwich Bread Is the Underrated Recipe Everyone Should Be Making (2024)

FAQs

Which bread do you think will make the best sandwich? ›

The 6 Best Bread for Sandwiches
  1. Bread Rolls. A roll is a small and fluffy piece of bread that can be eaten on its own or used to make a sandwich. ...
  2. Brioches. Brioche is a sweeter option that works with almost everything. ...
  3. Wraps. ...
  4. Sourdoughs. ...
  5. Oil-Based Loaves. ...
  6. Baguettes.

Did Julia Child make bread? ›

Julia Child's Pain Français (French Bread) recipe was published in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume II in 1970. It became an instant classic, and like so many of Julia's recipes, proved that the average home cook could make beautiful loaves of French Bread in her own kitchen.

Is homemade bread healthier? ›

That said, most homemade breads are likely healthier than store-bought breads, which are often high in sugar and preservatives. One benefit of making your own bread is that you can control the ingredients. For example, you can use whole wheat flour instead of white flour, or add healthy toppings like nuts and seeds.

How do we choose our bread in making a sandwich? ›

Choose bread appropriate to the sandwich you're making. Pair moist fillings with soft, fluffy breads and you've got a recipe for a sponge, not a sandwich. As a general rule, the moister the filling the drier and denser the bread should be. A good, thick crust helps, too.

What is the most popular sandwich bread in America? ›

The favorite, by a thinly-sliced margin, is sourdough. Roughly 25% of the total 615 respondents (that's 156 people, for those keeping track at home) prefer sourdough bread for sandwiches.

What was Julia Child's first meal? ›

Child repeatedly recalled her first meal at La Couronne in Rouen as a culinary revelation; once, she described the meal of oysters, sole meunière, and fine wine to The New York Times as "an opening up of the soul and spirit for me."

Was Julia Child a real chef? ›

Famous chef, author, and television personality, Julia Child made French cuisine accessible to American audiences. She was one of the first women to host her own cooking show on television, providing tips and lessons on how to prepare French food simply and easily.

What did Julia Child have for her last meal? ›

Child died just two days before her 92nd birthday. Her last meal was a bowl of French onion soup prepared by her assistant, who reportedly got a few tips on how it could have been improved.

Is it OK to eat homemade bread everyday? ›

Unless you have a medical condition such as celiac disease, wheat allergy, or non-celiac gluten sensitivity, there is no need for you to avoid bread! In fact, bread can be included as part of a healthy, balanced diet every day – yes that is correct, every day!

Is it healthy to eat bread every day? ›

And will eating it every day affect your health negatively? Thankfully, bread can still be a go-to household staple, and can even help many people reach their nutrient goals. According to the Grain Foods Foundation, bread can be an excellent source of folate, fiber, iron, B vitamins and much more.

Is it worth making your own sandwich bread? ›

Homemade bread is also made with more nutritious ingredients and is healthier and better-tasting than store-bought loaves. But buying store-bought bread may be more cost-effective than making it yourself if you just need one loaf of super basic, plain sandwich bread for breakfast or lunch.

What is the difference between sandwich bread and regular bread? ›

The only difference between a 'sandwich' loaf and an ordinary loaf is its shape. A sandwich loaf usually has a 'square' section. This gives the sandwich an even shape where both ends of the sandwich are the same shape.

Why is sandwich bread different from regular bread? ›

Sandwich bread may be designed to have a balanced proportion of crumb and crust, whereby the bread holds and supports fillings in place and reduces drips and messiness. Some may be designed to not become crumbly, hardened, dried or have too compressible a texture.

What is the best bread to have? ›

Look for “whole grain,” “whole wheat,” or “whole meal” on the label. If a loaf contains 6 grams of fiber per 100 g, it's rich in fiber. Choose breads with plenty of intact grains, like oats, barley, and quinoa, as well as seeds, if you can eat these. Watch out for mass-produced sourdough breads.

What is the best bread for a healthy sandwich? ›

In general, you want to look for whole-grain bread that has some fiber, protein and not too much sodium or added sugar per slice. Sprouted grain bread hits all those marks and has a hearty texture that I think is delicious when toasted.

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